What is the benefit & how to apply for ammonium sulfate?
Below are our collection videos to study ammonium sulphate from Youtube
Ammonium sulfate is a widely used fertilizer with great benefits for crop growth. It provides essential nutrients such as nitrogen and sulfur, which are needed for plant growth. Its application can lead to increased crop yield, improved soil quality, and plant resilience against diseases and pests.
Transcript:
(00:02) this year guys I’ve used a new fertilizer I’ve never used before in my lawn It Is by Lawn Supply Company from Ryan Knorr who is here on YouTube but it’s called ammonium sulfate 21-00 21 nitrogen um you should be able to tell the color is superb it is a dark rich green color this is a GCI Turf type tall Fescue lawn and uh have been highly impressed with the first application I’ve got roughly about 0.
(00:33) 75 pounds of in in this grass right now at the end of February and it is looking phenomenal just wanted to show it off consider ammonium sulfate and for your lawn and if you have a high pH ammonium sulfate is also available to be able to lower pH levels into a more reasonable level so it has that extra benefit so check out ammonium sulfate for a rich dark green looking Fescue lawn
To apply ammonium sulfate, first, a soil test is necessary to determine the right amount of fertilizer required. Optimal application time is during a plant’s growth period. It is important to avoid over-fertilization, which can cause the accumulation of nitrates in food crops, posing health risks. Application methods include broadcast, surface application or side dressing. Ammonium sulfate can be found in fertilizer stores or online.
Transcript:
(00:06) the concept of enhanced ammonium supplies to increase the proportion of the nitrogen available to the plant as ammonia plants can use either nitrate or ammonium but under normal conditions the vast majority of the nitrogen used by plants is as nitrate and this is because slow microorganisms rapidly convert ammonium forms of nitrogen to nitrate under warm well aerated soil state earn their living by oxidizing ammonium to nitrate nitrate in itself isn’t bad because plants can use it but it is negatively charged
(00:43) it does not bind to the negatively charged soil particles and therefore it is subject to losses it can be leached below the rooting zone this is where it old Tamilians up and tie a line and in the stream and in the river or under waterlogged conditions it can be lost as a gas and denitrification so if nitrogen can be kept in the ammonium form it can definitely lessen the possibility for losses not only does this save the farmer nitrogen but it also minimizes the environmental impacts of nitrogen fertilizer use
(01:26) there’s a couple of benefits that derive from the plant itself from a handsome Oni and supply when you give the plant the opportunity to take up nitrogen its nitrate or ammonium that now and there’s two potential sources the plant can actually accumulate more nitrogen nitrogen is usually the most limiting mineral element for plant growth so two forms twice the opportunity to take up nitrogen by keeping the nitrogen as ammonium positively charged anion that allows the plant to take up more other anions plant has to take up an anion for
(02:03) every cation maintain electrical neutrality and by supplying some of the nitrogen as ammonium and positively charged now that plant to take up more anions phosphate sulfur can be enhanced so this gives the plant the opportunity to better utilize other mineral nutrients now if you look at how plants adjust their cellular pH they do so by adjusting the uptake of anions and cations and by allowing the plant to take up more ammonium positively-charged this gives a better control over the cellular pH now one nuance of a
(02:42) double-take of ammonium is it has to be assimilated in the root and turns into organic forms right in the root and the root also happens to be the site of synthesis of an important growth regulator cytokinins and by having a more nitrogen organic nitrogen in the root then you can also make more of this important growth regulator cytokine that’s then transported to the leaf helps reproductive development helps leaf health so there’s a whole host of benefits from enhanced ammonium nutrition more an uptake more uptake of
(03:21) other elements particularly anions better pH control and the synthesis and transport of some important plant growth rate these benefits go into better growth better health better yield but in our own research with porn when we can enhance the supply of ammonia over that normally present we see yield increases on the ten to thirteen percent range receive and greater yield increases in wheat because wheat with enhanced ammonia and supplies tillers better tillers an important field component here increases in the 20 to 40 percent
(03:59) we have observed simply from change in the proportion or increasing the amount of nitrogen available as volume
In summary, ammonium sulfate is an excellent fertilizer for promoting plant growth, producing high yields, and improving soil quality. Proper application requires a soil test, the right amount of fertilizer and timing, and application methods suited for the specific crop.
Transcript:
(00:05) so high-yielding systems are what we conceived for corn yields produced by growers in the National Corn Growers contests we saw a lot of 400 bushels produced last year a new world record at 454 Porsha listen no that’s compared to a national average in 170 s so there’s a huge yield gap over what most farmers grow and what is possible and these growers who win the National Corn Growers contests they do so by a number of enhanced production practices but one of the key ones is better management of nitrogen not only did it make sure that
(00:44) the plant has adequate nitrogen throughout its life they spoon-feed it but in many cases they try to manipulate the form and the source and I’m convinced that a lot of what’s happening here is that they’re increasing the amount of nitrogen that the corn plant sees as ammonium does it take much and that gives them the potential for more kernels cover your kernels healthier plants and a higher yield so growers that are after high yields enhanced ammonium supplies one of the factors that I think plays a very large
(01:17) role [Music] sulfur’s widely overlooked as an important mineral nutrient seeing more and more cases of sulfur response this is because of cleaner air less sulfur that as far as a co-product of fertilizers so sulfur is the often too often the missing link a widely over looked mineral element we’ve recently tracked the uptake of of nitrogen and sulfur by a high yielding corn plants and we see that over half the sulfur that the corn plant absorbs is absorbed after flowering over half and this is a compared to nitrogen fertilizer where
(02:01) only 25 to 30 percent of the nitrogen the corn plant takes up is after flowering so in other words we have to have a season-long supply of sulfur to meet the needs of high yield part and unlike some elements like nitrogen where the nitrogen can be cannibalized out of the leaf and stock tissue to meet the needs of the grain sulfur in the leaf is relatively immobile and that means that the sulfur that the brain needs has to be absorbed through the root season-long uptake of sulfur I think this is one of the reasons that that we’re seeing more
(02:39) and more cases of response to sulfur and corn flax we’re seeing a lot more cases of actual sulfur deficiency we showed up this year and especially in continuous corn but we have a lot of residue that immobilizes nutrients and those those deficiencies show up and are an early age we actually verified that with tissue tests and so when you’re deficient in sulfur from an early age you’re probably going to be deficient season one cases where we applied some sulfate fertilizer we do not have these deficiencies so a deficiency the symptom
(03:15) is a clear sign that that nutrient is not available in the in the amount that’s needed for optimum growth.
Transcript:
(00:00) what’s up everyone its Matt Martin with the grass factor I promised I would do a video that is all about ammonium sulfate so wanted to take the time and go ahead get that video done today okay so when we’re talking about ammonium sulfate it’s remember this is a continuation of the difference between your nitrogen sources your slow release nitrogen sources which typically stem from urea those sources are going to be involving different types of polymer coatings or denitrification inhibitors or urease
(00:48) inhibitors to slow the conversion that takes place with urea which is urea reacting with urease and then the production of nh3 and co2 so what we have when we’re dealing with ammonium sulfate you’re dealing with the ammonium ion which is nh4+ and you’re dealing with the sulfate ion which is so4 what’s different between this in urea is that in addition to the nitrogen portion of it which would come from ammonium you also have sulfate which is also going to provide elemental plant-available sulfur
(01:27) not that now not to be confused with elemental sulfur that would affect soil pH but the sulfate ion is readily able to be taken up by plant roots and provide a sulfur source to plants so immediately off the bat you’re getting two available nutrients instead of just one nutrient when going out with ammonium sulfate there’s a couple of things to keep in mind in regards to risks with ammonium sulfate ammonium sulfate has a high salt indexed the other thing too is that it is a soil acidifier the interesting thing about
(02:02) this is that it’s not the sulfate ion that causes the soil acidity it’s the ammonium ion and the breakdown of ammonium once it reacts with water you gives off these positively charged 100 ion’s which is what releases acidity into the soil also in terms of cost is relatively expensive per pound of actual end going out now in terms of it advantages and we’ll kind of go to the list and talk about each of these points about what makes it an important to keep in mind as a risk and also what makes it
(02:37) important to keep in mind that it’s not so much of a risk one thing to just kind of highlight here is in terms of agriculture some crops are going to be more responsive to ammonium sulfate than other crops so for instance Rice’s one of those ones that never did really do well with ammonium sulfate so what happened in particular rice was that you had an over an abundance of iron uptake in the plant and what would happen is that you would have a decreased yield as a result and this was due to the drop in
(03:14) soil pH it would allow for greater uptake of iron so in terms of rice you could see where does something like that maybe bad however in terms of turf grass you can see where additional iron uptake would be positive now that acidifying effect on that soil will lead to a wider range of micronutrients that are to be taken up and ultimately give you a darker green grass the other thing to keep in mind too is that if your pH drops too low so we’re talking mid floors and lower aluminum uptake begins to occur and
(03:43) aluminum can have toxic phytotoxic effects to plants so it’s important to know your soil pH if you’re going to go out with a product like ammonium sulfate and just real quick to touch on what we were talking about with the additional iron uptake interestingly the use of ammonium sulfate shows plant tissue analysis have higher instances of iron as well as magnesium and it’s actually above pretty significantly of Leafs and bounds over urea the only thing that would be even remotely close would be potassium nitrate showed very similar
(04:21) elevated levels of iron in particular so in how this correlates with turf grass higher instances of plant tissue iron and magnesium means that the plant is going to have higher concentrations of chlorophyll which in turn leads means we have darker color and you know of course darker darker color is a bit of the name of the game so let’s first talk about how this applies to turf grass ammonium sulfate again is applying nitrogen and sulfur sulfur is depending on which piece of researchers looking at would be
(04:59) considered a secondary nutrient is still a macronutrient but a secondary nutrient and then in the older instances it was considered a micronutrient the advantage of using this ammonium form of nitrogen is that you limit the amount of nitrogen loss that occurs through nh3 volatilization so especially if you’re dealing with a soil type that is already neutral in PH or a slightly acidic in PH you really cut down on that in ch3 volatilization down to next to nothing which is awesome so it’s a it’s an
(05:42) efficient fertilizer to go out with now ammonium sulfate is also a better in source for saline soils these are going to be soils that contain higher instances of sodium ammonium sulfate actually will decrease the effects of sodium chloride NaCl and as well as in sodic soils it’s actually going to improve soil structure in terms of soil acidification what ends up happening is that you have when that soil acidification takes place in the rhizosphere of the plant so in and around that root zone you get an increase in phosphorous
(06:20) availability and you also have an increase in phosphorous rock uptake so that would be a soil applied phosphorous and you also have of course with lower pH a higher micro nutrient uptake the other advantage too is that ammonium sulfate does not lead to co2 emissions like urea does again urea is going to convert to nh3 in co2 co2 of course being loss as a gas in the environment then of course you’re doing a little bit of this research and this kind of goes back to the the old turfgrass days is that the acidifying effect in the route
(06:59) rio sphere may lead to a decrease in the ability for some diseases some route borne diseases route borne pathogens such as Rhizoctonia Salina to have a decreased effect however we’ll jump into a little bit of that later that’s subjective at best also ammonium sulfate the ammonium portion of this is much less volatile than your other in sources so your ammonia or even your ammonium nitrate you know your your nitrate is going to be much more subjected to leaching whereas you be relying more on your just the ammonium portion of your
(07:43) ammonium nitrite okay so now we’ll talk a little bit about the acidification effects on soil what’s interesting about this again just to reiterate the sulphate ion does not acidify the soil it is a plant available form of sulfur but it is not that that causes the issue so it’s again like I said earlier it’s the ammonium portion of it so what happens is ammonium will react with a specific bacteria in the soil and it will lead to production of no.
(08:16) 3 and hydrogen ions possibly charged hydrogen ions and acidic soil has a higher concentration of positively charged hydrogen ions now the issue with this is that this AMS when you know reacts with water you get 2h you know 4 plus 3 o 2 so for your you get 2 parts of ammonium in 3 parts oxygen that release at the soil surface this oxygen release at the soil surface is very beneficial in terms of microbiology they will be gravitating towards this oxygen exist at the soil surface and then it also plays into some things we’ll talk
(08:59) about later on in terms of nutrient availability but as that release happens again there’s more reactions that take place with very specific bacteria which is going to lead to the production of two parts of no.2 which is nitrite it’s also going to lead to two parts water and four parts hydrogen positively charged hydrogen ions so for every one part ammonium sulfate applied to the soil ultimately you’re getting four parts of hydrogen ions and that’s what leads to the acidifying effect okay now what’s
(09:35) interesting about this is that in terms of combating that it roughly takes five pounds of calcium carbonate to negate the effects of ammonium sulfate so just keep that in mind and to break this down into a chart sand is quicker to acidify than at clay or even a loam so if you were trying to drop your pH to a 4.5 and you have a current pH of 5.
(10:04) 0 you would only need 175 pounds of ammonium sulfate to bring a 502 a45 in a loam you would need 530 pounds of ammonium sulfate to drop a 5 to a 4.5 and in clay you would need 800 pounds to drop a 5 to a 4.5 again this is via pounds per acre now if we’re bringing that down from a 5.5 in sand we’re looking at 350 pounds loam we would need 1050 and in clay we would need 1,600 pounds per acre to drop a 5 5 to a 4 or 5 in turn if we were at a 6 all of a sudden at a Lome we would need 1540 and we would need 2300 10 pounds per acre to
(10:49) bring a 6 to a 4.5 in clay soil so if you’re dealing with clay and loam soils this may be an important tool for you to use or keep in mind if you have to negate the effects of the ammonium sulfate an important thing to do too is keep in mind of how much you’re going to be applying per acre over the course of the year if you’re applying 800 pounds per acre over the course of the year that would be approximately 4 pounds of n then you may draw if you have an existing pH of 5 you may drop that to a 4.5 which would be an issue at
(11:20) that point you would need to apply approximately you would need 2 tons per acre of your calcium carbonate so you’re lying to negate that effect if you need to move it up a point again quickly you can use something like a fast-acting lime and that’s going to cut down that pH see a technology the poly carboxylic acid will allow that to happen much more quickly so the other thing we want to talk about is the salt index so this goes into the risk of using ammonium sulfate ammonium sulfate has a high salt
(11:55) index it’s going to be not quite 2x that of urea I would say that you’re twice as likely to burn something so at one pound of in per thousand square feet going down in terms of fully or fertilizer you would if that began to tip burned you would also see the same tip burnt at about a half pound of in per thousand square feet of ammonium sulfate so that’s one thing to keep in mind interestingly the tip burn that does occur with ammonium sulfate these are studies that were done on bentgrass was that it actually recovered really
(12:29) quickly within a week usually the tip burn tend to correct itself with a little bit of mowing it would mow out the damage in terms of volatilization and overall performance of ammonium sulfate it is as low in terms of volatility as most of our nitrogen sources better than our other nitrogen sources and this would be due to the ammonium ion it’s positively charged and it’s going to bond with the negatively charged ions in the soil that slow that leaching that takes place in terms of denitrification there are several
(13:07) different interactions and reactions that have to occur in the soil with different bacteria in order to even produce nitrate or nitrite for that to happen so you would rely on NH 4 to convert to nitrite Oh – and then nitrite would have to react with more bacteria to then become no.
(13:29) 3 which would be subject to loss verses in urea you know you’ll have that conversion that happens relatively quickly within h3 and then – no.3 and then converted to in – which is nitrogen and then into Oh nitrous oxide which would ultimately to faster instances of volatilization now with the whole you know rhizosphere pH and effect on rising toniest Illini again this was it goes back to agriculture and agricultural testing at 40 pounds per acre they saw no change at 80 pounds per acre of ammonium sulfate they saw less instances of rising tonnage to lionize now that
(14:11) was attempted to be repeated in many different ways and it was also studied for long term effects and long term it did not continue to have that same effect cumulatively year over year over a year so there’s not a lot of hard science that would say that it does indeed lead to fewer instances of brown patch outbreak in turf grasses that are going to be susceptible to brown patch however one thing that is working in this advantage is going to be again that release of oxygen at the soil surface which will allow – a natural
(14:50) colonization of predator specific pathogens for Razzaq – nurseline I’d this would be you know your bacillus varieties and stuff that in harmony can tend to alleviate a bit of the pressure that occurs with rising Turner Salina so the other thing that’s interesting about the presence of oxygen at the soil surface is that that oxygenated surface will also lead to a decrease in denitrification and this is because it typically is required to have low oxygen environment so a waterlogged soil for that nh4 to no.2 conversion
(15:35) and o3 conversion to take place so by having adequate moisture levels as well as an oxygen-rich soil surface it will typically slow that conversion from taking place which in turn will lead to less denitrification well that’s gonna be the highlights on ammonium sulfate and that is particularly why I use it it tends to be more of a high-risk high-reward type outfit but at the same time in terms of the amount of loss that does not occur by using ammonium sulfate I’m able to back down my nitrogen rights
(16:11) overall so one of the experiments I’m doing this year is instead of running four and a half five pounds and then per year I’m gonna be driving that down to two and a half pounds of then maybe two and three quarters maybe three depending on how the weather and comfortable practices that face on homeowner lawns turn out so I will what I would actually be spending in urea I would be saving it would be a moot point a moot effect that cancels each other by going to ammonium sulfate because I would ultimately be
(16:42) using less in less in would be required because of the efficiency I would be getting out of the ammonium sulfate this also goes into ammonium sulfate being having faster uptake in cooler weather obviously in cooler weather what happens is you rece the the enzyme that is going to convert urea into ammonia gas to be taken out by the plant in cooler weather it is not as effective so that conversion does not take place really well whereas ammonium can be taken up the other advantage too is that for instance fall applied ammonium sulfate
(17:20) in early early spring applied ammonium sulfate can last for an extremely long period of time and the reason being is that nitrogen in general is very stable in a stable form in cooler weather so when applied in in late fall with cooler weather it’s going to remain in that soil for a very long period of time and because ammonium sulfate is so efficient you’re not going to suffer as much loss as you potentially could when you’re dealing with urea and the conversion to a gas and ammonia form and so again that would
(17:58) tie over into the spring when you’re applying it in the spring early early spring when it’s still cold outside it allows you to get that application down and it’s going to be stable and it will last for a very long time without being subjected to the leaching and volatilization so only 9:00 that was the difference the game-changer for me in choosing to go with ammonium sulfate and then on the back end of that would be the utilizing sulfur as an element in turf grass and also the additional plant
(18:32) tissue results with increased amounts of iron and increase amounts of magnesium so we get the oxygen release we get higher micro nutrient uptake I can deal with the acidifying effect of the soil I don’t apply fully early so I’m not as concerned with tip burners that would be but if I was applying fully early instead of going out with a full pound have been from urea I would only be going out with a half pound of in from ammonium sulfate so they’re there for cutting my wrists to even need to run those high amounts of in so as it comes
(19:09) down to it we’ve got lower inputs so I’ll be cutting down my overall amounts of in apply I’m gonna have an oxygen release at the soil surface which can lead to higher instances of beneficial bacteria microbes pathogens that can fight things like rhizoctonia Salina the additional oxygen as the soil surface is going to decrease the amount of volatilization and leaching that occurs the the ammonium form in general is going to help with cool weather uptake and cool weather longevity so being able to get that fertilizer out early and
(19:48) that way as weather permits I will get a faster green up as well as a darker green up from it so all in all ammonium sulfate for me is a win-win on many different fronts and super excited for how so far the results I’m getting from this season so anyway y’all I hope you learned something if you did please click the subscribe button that’s what tells me to keep going and if you always always if you have any questions feel free to email me at the grass factor at gmail.
(20:19) com I can’t thank you all enough for this I still can’t believe this is happening so again thank you to each and every one of you I really appreciate it y’all have a good one take it easy
Transcript:
(00:10) [Music] what’s up yard freakos and thanks for joining me on this video so today i’m going to be going over me um doing a little bit of extra fertilization for my yard so i made a video a few weeks ago about my first fertilization of the yard using rich lawn turf food but the thing is is even though even though it doesn’t look like this on camera on the camera my yard is uh tate is really having a hard time coming out of winter dormancy this year so what i’m going to be doing is applying some ammonia sulfate
(00:48) and a liquid form to just basically give it a little bit of a kick start a little bit of a boost and help it wake up that much faster so there’s mainly two reasons for this um the first one is if with my soil analysis it is saying not only do i need more nitrogen i also need uh sulfur and ammonia sulfate will apply both of those things it’s also telling me that my ph is high and ammonia sulfate unlike urea is really good at bringing um the bringing the ph down basically helping the soil acidify so basically i’m knocking three birds
(01:22) out with one stone here right so i’m getting some sulfur into the yard i’m getting more nitrogen into the yard and i’m lowering the ph which will do just good things for the grass all around so let’s get started all right so for my uh ammonium sulfate application i’m going to be using high yield ammonia sulfate now why am i using ammonia sulfate in a liquid so the reason why is because i’m only wanting to get about .
(01:48) 2 pounds of nitrogen per thousand into the yard so that equates to about 1.5 pounds of ammonia sulfate across my yard the thing is though is no matter how many times i calibrate my spreader my rotary spreader i just don’t trust it enough to accurately apply so little of a product across the yard so by dissolving the only sulfate in water and then applying it as a liquid into the yard that way i can get more of an even coverage and accurate coverage for the grass now let’s talk about dissolving ammonia sulfate in water
(02:25) so ammonium sulfate is a salt so the risk there is if you’re not careful you will burn your grass and so what i’m going to be doing here is I’m going to be applying my 1.5 pounds of ammonium sulfate across three applications so basically i’m going to take half a pound of ammonium sulfate dissolve it in two and a half gallons of water and then apply and then apply it across the grass then i’ll water it in because make sure you do water it in because if you do let the ammonium sulfate dry on the
(02:53) grass you have the potential of burning it that’s what i really have to be um that’s why i’m really saying guys gotta be cautious with this stuff can’t be cavalier um take your time otherwise you could end up doing more harm than good with your grass so with the ammonium sulfate first thing make sure you get pure modium sulfate make sure it’s not like slow release because that usually has polymers or some type of clay in it that will not make it easy to dissolve in the water so try and find pure ammonium
(03:21) sulfate when you do it okay so i’m gonna pour the ammonium sulfate here get it mixed and then we’ll do the [Music] application [Music] [Music] all right trek here with me you want to get this doll off quickly just get really hot water pop that water and do it now i’m not using this spoon to mix and i’m using it to get the i’m gonna [Music] so
(04:45) [Music] okay that just about wraps this video up here on how to use liquid ammonium sulfate for your yard
(05:48) uh so if that said you guys take it easy have a good one feel free to comment in the comment section and i’ll talk to you next time
Transcript:
(00:08) so here in front of us we have two mixtures exactly the same mixtures of glyphosate to 4d and ammonium sulfate and the outcome is very different so one of the bottles short precipitation the other bottle is a perfect mixture so we’re going to establish what went wrong here the problem is the ammonium sulfate and we used raw ammonium sulfate which is the most commonly used ammonium sulfate in Australia when you mix it you need a lot of water you can’t skimp on the water and the other one is you need to give it time to dissolve so here we
(00:48) basically use only very little water and we gave it hardly any time to dissolve here we use 60% of our tank volume before we put it in and we gave it plenty of time so I will redo the see and we see the outcome okay so let’s start with the high water volume in this jar test I have here four hundred milliliter I’m working on seven hundred milliliter which is based on 70 litres per hectare one hundreds of it and we’re looking at sixty percent of our tank filled so that’s four hundred so I put the ammonium sulphide in
(01:29) generally speaking you should allow for monument to fully dissolve ten minutes okay so I’ll just educate okay now this bottle here have been agitated for ten minutes in the relatively high water volume at least 60% of the tank filled here I probably have only maybe 10% of the 10 tank for you we’re pulling the ammonium sulfate in and we will not give it the maximum time but instead only maybe thirty seconds or so looks relatively okay and now what I’m doing will be identical in
(02:35) both orbits put the 2 4 D in a bit of a shake and blast dog needs we put the glyphosate in bit of a shake you can already see where we cut corners here with water volume and torn and it will finish up having precipitation on the bottom and we won’t be able to reverse it even if we get it up to our full tank load now and the two basic mistakes we made here we use too little water we didn’t use our 60% tank fill
(03:40) and we didn’t give the ammonium sulfate enough time to dissolve so it gives us a little shake but if we let it stay for a while you will see how it precipitates to the bottom so and here is our final outcome exactly the same amount of chemical this mixture here worked perfectly this mixture here on the border and we can’t see precipitation and the problem resists mixture was that we didn’t have enough water in the tank when we put some Anjum sorry fade in and we hardly gave it any time to dissolve
(04:26) so common mistakes in the field so if you mix it dry ammonium sulphide what you really have to do watch out for is put 60% of your tank volume into the tank and give it 10 minutes to dissolve and you should have no problems now in our next video we’re going to talk about the mixing order because a mixing order is a very important part of the mixing process as well
Transcript:
(00:03) all right I got the 4450 hooked up to the fertilizer spreader because it has the GPS on it and we’re going to be putting this ammonium sulfate down and Timothy is never spread ammonium sulfate or any other kind of fertilizer with a fertilizer spreader so that’s why I wanted him to get that GPS unit going we’re gonna set it up here to one and a quarter inches so that it’s you know where it belongs which is right there that’s one and a quarter one and a quarter inches should be giving me somewheres around that’s too much I
(00:49) don’t want that much wrong yeah yeah that’s fine that should be fine actually no it’s not I want to put that down to one inch that’s one inch yeah that’ll do that should be putting me somewhere around 150 pounds that’s more than enough right Tim yeah all right you know how to set this thing up right did you grease this okay good all right so he’s got the the chariot going you got this thing set up here right all right 40-foot with 50 foot which bring a steering wheel down I wish the other part of the shoot was
(01:47) coming down here today I’m not just big you’re too big okay so we only got there as far as you have to do the outside round so that the okay it’s already set off you set up make it so that his painting now you got the hydraulics set you know how to do the a beeline then right yeah all right well I don’t need to be in here doing no okay Goforth now let’s make sure he gets this right I’m probably gonna they’ll see it come out the back come on as well that’s it he goes fast or not as fast as
(02:48) he wants as long as he’s not putting it out on the road now hopefully when he sets that a beeline which is the straight line which is the straight line for the for the GPS to work he should be able to just follow those lines and then everything should be perfect as far as the spread pattern and he’ll cover this really nicely at least in theory he will the reason I’m putting ammonium sulfate on this ground is because if I do not get the the weather to incorporate this into the plant for that second cut that
(03:31) I’m looking for the nitrogen and the sulfur will still be there in the spring so I won’t really lose anything and it will contribute to the health of the plant now this ground is rented ground I actually do pay a couple bucks for this and it is very important that I keep the nutritional level up now this ground was neglected for many many many many years and I really don’t want to put too much into it as far as building a nutrient base because at a moment’s at the drop of a hat at any moment someone could
(04:10) just pull this away from me and they could go somewhere else so I’m only putting down wood I take off with very little more yeah well I can’t say that I only put down what I’m taking off I’m actually adding a little more than what I’m taking off because I do like good healthy a good healthy plant now this is a fescue this is fescue that’s all there is to it this is fescue and it does have some weed intrusion in here or unwanted plants which are weeds like that horse nettle that’s there and there and there
(04:47) and it does have this plant here which is a succulent plant this little son of a will that will just continue it gets a little flower on a little white flower I’m not sure what it’s called because I I don’t encounter it very often the one thing that I do have a problem with is these those are multi floor rose bushes but if you cut those a couple times a year you can get them under control this is a ragweed not giant ragweed that’s common ragweed again multiflora rose bushes but there’s an area out here that has poison ivy in
(05:21) it and I hate poison I here’s your poison I well just poison ivy no this is a bramble bush of some sort now what the hell is this this is a woody tree I’m not sure what that is to be caught honest with it almost looks like a gooseberry that’s some sort but here’s our poison ivy that poison ivy sucks now I can’t I can’t make little bales of this stuff or even big bales of this stuff in good faith and send it to a to a cattle or horses it does get the mushroom barn but by the time it’s done
(06:01) fermenting breaking down the poison ivy is then a mute subject so I’m really worried too much about that but the one thing that is going to happen here is Banville and to 4d I’ve done it twice now over the last couple three years and here’s some real hard to kill yet this is hemp dog vein I hate hemp dog vein I mean this stuff and they can make rope out of that stuff and it’s a lot like milkweed you can it’s real sticky to touch it sucks but these are the weed problems that I do have here and I will
(06:35) be getting them under control pretty soon I got I’m sure people on the roads are like what the hell is that guy doing talking to himself on camera but I don’t care there is some what we call poor grass growing here because this is a warm season grass that comes up wild when when the ground starts to get depleted and but other than you know I mean I don’t even know what else to say about that that pops up here and there this ground was Timothy originally about 15 years ago and then the fescue moved in
(07:10) and I don’t really want to kill it off and reseed it because like I said it’s rented down into someone else then just very easily say hey you know what there’s a nice-looking hay crop I’m gonna I’m gonna go ahead and pay more money for it or whatever and I don’t want to do that because it is one of those you got a watch at watch your back areas that’s corn flour so there’s quite a menagerie of different things in here more ragweed more calm and ragweed here but within a week I’ll have this all
(07:38) under control because I’m waiting for my chemical to get here I do Timothy coming behind up here we’re gonna watch him set that a beeline and he should be pretty awesome with that he’s going at a pretty slow speed which is good because we don’t want him to go too fast until he gets practiced up you can go pretty much any speed as you see the small tire running off the big tire we got 100 mile an hour and they’ll still meet her it out the right the right you know the right amount yeah so that’s just the way it goes
(08:17) hopefully if we will make that corner and is he gonna shut the tire off he’d better raise that tire off yes he did so he is shut off the belt where the drag chain and now he’s get himself pointed in the right direction and he’s going to start spreading again hopefully he’s got to find his line there he goes he’s trying so now he’s hit the a line maybe the B line – I don’t know once you get that set up and he’s spreading again that fertilizer should be hitting me right so it’s good
(09:11) it’s good that that spreader is supposed to only be a 40-foot spreader but I’ll tell you what it really does reach out there 250 feet so with it with the ammonium sulfate so it’s pretty good where we’re at with the amount of sulfate so now he’ll be able to do this entire field with great precision and we will be able to tell if I stretched it too far by doing 50 feet when things green up guys hope that was entertaining and educational for you thanks for watching please comment rate and subscribe for more and whatever else you
(09:46) feel like going right there you go
Transcript:
(00:00) welcome everyone today we’ll be reviewing the results of last week’s top dressing i’ll also be adding some fertilizer to help increase the amount of nitrogen and reduce the soil ph let’s start by taking a look at the results from last week the lawn’s looking good it’s filled in the areas where you could see some of that peat moss and compost top crusting from before the grass has pretty much filled it all in a couple little bare spots here and there but overall it’s looking nice and healthy now last
(00:29) week i was using all organic materials this week i’m using an inorganic product i’ve chosen ammonium sulfate fertilizer ammonium sulfate is a 2100 product so of the primary three macro nutrients nitrogen phosphorus and potassium in this instance only nitrogen is being added now my soil is already high in phosphorous it’s okay in potassium so we’re just going to focus on nitrogen with this application ammonium sulfate also contains sulfur which is a secondary macronutrient which will also help lower ph
(01:05) in my soil in my alkaline soil my ph is over eight so while it’s going to take some time and several applications to lower the ph with sulfur i do need to start that process you can just add sulfur to reduce the ph so i may need to go that route in the future but we’ll just have to keep testing the soil to find out the ph levels and make corrections as needed so the first thing i need to do is perform some calculations now i know my lawn is roughly 650 square feet now if you don’t know your square footage one easy way is to head over to
(01:38) google earth and just do some quick measurements this is helpful if you have a lawn like mine that’s maybe not a perfect rectangle or a perfect square you have kind of an odd shaped lawn this is a great tool once you’re on google earth all you have to do is select the measuring tool measure out your lawn by selecting a few points on the map and you’ll get an output for square footage so based on this measurement my lawn is let’s round up a little bit say i’m at 650 square feet so if we go back to the directions on
(02:09) the fertilizer it says i need to apply five pounds per 1000 square feet so let’s divide my area of 650 by the bag rate of 1000 and we get 0.65 so we’ll multiply that 0.65 by 5 pounds and you’ll get the answer for the area for me which is 3.25 pounds so i need to apply 3.25 pounds for my lawn of 650 square feet now i’d like to figure out an easy way to measure three and a quarter pounds what i like to do is i like to use measuring cups for these so generally speaking a granular fertilizer like this
(02:45) is going to be two cups or 16 ounces for one pound now i can verify this i have a small little scale here so i’m just going to measure one cup and check the weight now i’ll start by placing the container on the scale hit the tare button that just zeros the scale so i’m not measuring the weight of the actual container i’m just measuring the product i’ll add my eight ounces which is equal to one cup and check the weight now half a pound is about 230 grams so you can see i’m very close to half a
(03:14) pound maybe a little over so my one cup for my eight ounces is equal to a half a pound so to get to three and a quarter pounds i’ll need six and a half of these eight ounce scoops now because this is the first time i’m applying it to this lawn i’m gonna dial back the recommendation by 25 and only add two and a half pounds or five cups now measure out my five cups and empty it into my spreader i’m using a chest spreader but if you have a push spreader or handheld spreader that will work just fine
(03:45) i like to walk the lawn a few times and try to get it so i have enough material to make at least one east-west and one north-south pattern send a little love over to my planter bed my trees because hey why not now once i’m done for the instructions on the bag i’m gonna go ahead and water it in now combine my sprinkler nozzles put out about 270 gallons per hour which would water my lawn about four to six inches deep so i’m going to go ahead and run my sprinkler for in total for about an hour but i’ll break it up into four or five
(04:28) different increments just to allow the water to percolate down and prevent any runoff now in the future i’ll do a video more in depth on calculated sprinkler run time but for now just know we’ll go do it for an hour so that’s it for this video check back next week and we will review the results now next week we’re going to be going back to the organics and we’ll be doing some seaweed application applied through foliar spray thanks for watching everyone
